On Kislev 25 in the Jewish calendar, Jews throughout the world light the first Hanukkah candle. The holiday commemorates the Maccabean victory over Antiochus of Syria some twenty-one centuries ago. Going to cleanse and rededicate the Temple, the Maccabees found only enough sacred oil to light the menorah for one day. But a miracle occurred, and one day's supply lasted eight. For each of the eight nights of Hanukkah, therefore, an additional candle is inserted, from right to left, and lit by the shammas (or helper), from left to right, until an eight-candled menorah is aglow.
The Eastern European origin of latkes becomes apparent in contemporary distinctions between the Ashkenazic and Sephardic communities' celebration of Hanukkah. Edgar Nathan 111, president of the Spanish and Portuguese Synagogue of new York and a descendant of one of the first American Separdic families, cannot remember a latke tradition in his family. It was not until the sixteenth century that potatoes were discovered and brought from Bolivia and Peru to Western Europe. By that time, the Nathans, because of the Inquisition, had left Spain.
Sephardim have their own Hanukkah traditions, however, Their culinary customs, like those of the Jews in the Ukraine, were probably taken from the surrounding people. Greek women claim their loukomades--deep-fried puffs dipped to honey or sprinkled with powdered sugar--are more like the cakes the Maccabees ate, while Persian Jews prefer Zelebi, a snail-shaped, deep-fried sweet. Israeli sufganiyot are basically raised jelly doughnuts, and probably adapted from these same traditions.
The symbolism behind the pancake is threefold. Made initially of flour and water, they served as a reminder of the food hurriedly prepared for the Maccabees as they went to battle before their military victory. The oil in which the pancakes are prepared symbolized the cleansing and rededication of the Temple after it was defiled by the Assyrians. The third meaning was added in medieval times: the laktes symbolized the cheesecakes the widow Judith served the Assyrian general Holofernes before she cut off his head, thus delivering her people from the Assyrians. The latkes signify the victory of her chastity and humility over the lust and pride of Hologernes, who would have had the Jews slaughtered had Judith not fed him so well and given him so much wine that he fell asleep.
Originally, Hanukkah was a solstice festival and commemorated the Maccabean saga. It was in the Middle Ages that it evolved from a distinctly minor Temple festival to a major family one, during which the Shulhan Arukh forbids fasting and mourning and encourages singing and rejoicing. It was about this time that the deep-fried sweet emerged, which later, in Eastern Europe, became the famous latke that we know and love today.
The Jewish Holiday Kitchen--Joan Nahan
The Eastern European origin of latkes becomes apparent in contemporary distinctions between the Ashkenazic and Sephardic communities' celebration of Hanukkah. Edgar Nathan 111, president of the Spanish and Portuguese Synagogue of new York and a descendant of one of the first American Separdic families, cannot remember a latke tradition in his family. It was not until the sixteenth century that potatoes were discovered and brought from Bolivia and Peru to Western Europe. By that time, the Nathans, because of the Inquisition, had left Spain.
Sephardim have their own Hanukkah traditions, however, Their culinary customs, like those of the Jews in the Ukraine, were probably taken from the surrounding people. Greek women claim their loukomades--deep-fried puffs dipped to honey or sprinkled with powdered sugar--are more like the cakes the Maccabees ate, while Persian Jews prefer Zelebi, a snail-shaped, deep-fried sweet. Israeli sufganiyot are basically raised jelly doughnuts, and probably adapted from these same traditions.
The symbolism behind the pancake is threefold. Made initially of flour and water, they served as a reminder of the food hurriedly prepared for the Maccabees as they went to battle before their military victory. The oil in which the pancakes are prepared symbolized the cleansing and rededication of the Temple after it was defiled by the Assyrians. The third meaning was added in medieval times: the laktes symbolized the cheesecakes the widow Judith served the Assyrian general Holofernes before she cut off his head, thus delivering her people from the Assyrians. The latkes signify the victory of her chastity and humility over the lust and pride of Hologernes, who would have had the Jews slaughtered had Judith not fed him so well and given him so much wine that he fell asleep.
Originally, Hanukkah was a solstice festival and commemorated the Maccabean saga. It was in the Middle Ages that it evolved from a distinctly minor Temple festival to a major family one, during which the Shulhan Arukh forbids fasting and mourning and encourages singing and rejoicing. It was about this time that the deep-fried sweet emerged, which later, in Eastern Europe, became the famous latke that we know and love today.
The Jewish Holiday Kitchen--Joan Nahan
ah! so that's the origin of latke.
ReplyDeleteyes virginia, there is a hanukkah.
ReplyDelete