Friday, December 3, 2010

The Hanukkah-latke connection


Latke is the Yiddish word for pancake. According to Webster's, it probably goes back to the Greek elaion (olive oil). Kartoflani platske is still the term used to describe a potato pancake eaten in the Ukraine. It is the same food that the Jews, living in the Pale of Settlement in the seventeenth century, probably adapted for Hanukkah. Because their daily diet consisted of potatoes and bread, they wanted to include a special dish cooked in oil to symbolize the main miracle of Hanukkah. This potato pancake, already used by Ukrainians with goose for Christmas, seemed a good and relatively inexpensive choice. Because Hanukkah falls at the season when geese are plentiful, goose fat was an obvious and inexpensive substitute for the original olive oil.

For American Jews intrigued with the gastronomic side of Judaism, Hanukkah appears to be the preferred holiday. It is difficult to equal the taste of brown, crisp potato latkes. Every latke lover seems to know ow to make these potato pancakes. One will swear by a medium grater, another by the larger variety. Some prefer pepper; others, salt. Some add apples; others, grated zucchini, carrots, or parsley. some insist on grated and others on sauteed onion.

Latkes have become a versatile delicacy. They can be made from buckwheat or potatoes with a touch of flour. They can be served for breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner, or as cocktail-party fare. They can be eaten plain or fancy, with sugar, applesauce, or sour cream.

Happpy Hanukkah!

The Jewish Holiday Kitchen Joan Nathan

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